Archive for June, 2009

My Time with Mandakini

Friday, June 26th, 2009

I got a chance to sit down with Mandakini and hear her story. I found it hard to take in.  I’m going to let Georgia describe it in detail, pleae read her blog below…

One thing I felt after sitting down with her was enormous respect. She’s one of the strongest, most couragous women I have ever met - and I will never forget her.

mandakini

India - a place like no other in the world.  The people, the colours, the cows, the slums, the driving…

We were in the North East to meet with another of our grantees, a 24 year old woman called Mandakini.  She lives in Cuttak, a 90 minute drive from Bhubaneswar.  Marcus (the producer) and I went on ahead while Travis & the crew were filming in the 7th century Hindu temples that are all around the city.

And I feel that Marcus and I were the lucky ones, as while they were desperately trying not to melt outside the temples, we got to spend some serious time talking to Mandakini, without the cameras filming every nuance.  For those 90 minutes, as Mandakini told me her story (through a translator), I was in total awe of how this petite (4ft 9inches) beautiful woman has managed to overcome hardship, trauma, discrimination and devastation to ultimately triumph.  While I won’t do her story any justice at all, let me repeat it for you here, so that you too can understand what an incredible woman she is.

Mandakini was just 18 years old when she entered into an arranged marriage with a young man from her village.  Unfortunately, what Mandakini didn’t know was that her husband was already living with HIV… which he knew, but had declined to tell his new wife.

They lived together as man & wife for 10 days.  After that, he returned to Goa where his job was based.  Mandakini didn’t see him again for one year.  And when he returned, he was desperately ill.  AIDS was ravaging his body and there was nothing anyone could do about it.  He died 3 months after returning home.

But Mandakini’s troubles were only just starting.  Her husband had admitted to her in those last 3 months that he was HIV+ before they got married.  But upon his death, his family blamed Mandakini and tried to (at best) force her out of her marital home, but their venom and discrimination was so bad, that she believes they were encouraging her to kill herself.  They told everyone in the village that Mandakini - who, by this time, had got tested and found out that she too was living with HIV - should be shunned, and so they shunned her.  No one spoke to her, shared food with her, or even allowed her into their homes.

Despite the fact that her own family continued to support her, Mandakini was desperate; his family could have what they wished for: she would kill herself.  But by chance, at one of the hospitals, Mr Biswali met with Mandakini, and it is here that her life turned around.  He persuaded her that she not only had much to live for, but that she had so much to offer others in the world.

Fast forward 6 years, and Mandakini has now, with the help of Mr Biswali, set up UNP, which the Staying Alive Foundation supports.  UNP was set up to help other people living with HIV, who are experiencing discrimination from the wider community.  She helps them realise that they can still have fruitful, productive, and most importantly, NORMAL lives; and she works inside the community, educating those who are HIV-ve about the reality of HIV/AIDS, to help them realise that people living with HIV are “NORMAL”.  Ultimately, stigmatising people living with HIV comes from people who know nothing about it… and that is Mandakini’s mission in life - to change the balance within her community so that those who are HIV-ve know everything they need to about HIV/AIDS; and that those who are HIV+ve are able to walk the streets, go to school, greet their friends and family, with their heads held high.

Now let me assure you, Mandakini’s story (unfortunately) is NOT unique.  There are many women across India, and in many other countries in the world, who have experienced the same sort of discrimination that she has.  But what Mandakini has to offer us all, is a happy ending.  Not only is she so comfortable and confident with her HIV status, that she is happy to be open about it, not just within her community, but to the media as well, knowing that her story will impact others.  But best of all, Mandakini is now happily married, in a ‘love-match’, to a man that she met at UNP.  And Mandakini, just four months ago, gave birth to a healthy, beautiful baby boy.

For those you not lucky enough to have met Mandakini personally, let me assure you that her beauty is not just on the outside.  It shines out from her enormous brown eyes, it radiates through her smile, and her warmth seeps through her tiny hands as she holds yours.  I am privileged, truly, to have spent that time with her.


I Finally Meet Mandakini…

Friday, June 26th, 2009

After the two hour journey, we finally arrived in Cuttack.

We drove down a narrow dusty road into - what felt like - a small village. There was a loud sound coming from where we were heading, the sound turned out to be two guys playing conch shells. It was quite amazing how they kept the sound going constantly…apparently they learn to circualte the air they blow…

playing the conch

I was pretty nervous about meeting Mandakini, I hadn’t heard that much about her - but from what I did know, I knew she was an amazingly strong young woman - who had been through more than most of us can even imagine. I finally met with her as she greeted me outside of the comminity conselling center she runs. I was blessed by her colleagues amd felt incredibly humbled.

http://www.vimeo.com/5328151

India - First Thoughts

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

Travelling from Bhubaneswar to Cuttack gave me a real close look at Indian culture and living… Here are some photos I took along the way…

Your Questions… UPDATE

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

I know I said in my post below that Travis would answer some of your questions on Tuesday night… but unfortunately our schedule went crazy and we didn’t get back from our visit to the project till late at night… BUT Travis will still answer your questions, so watch this space. It should hopefully be over the weekend, I’ll post the answers up as soon as I have them…

Thanks!

India - Day 2

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

We were all tired.

We hung out the night before, working hard through the night.

Travis was writing his blog for the Huffington post - which you can read here

Alex, the journalist that was traveling with us, was writing stuff for Spin Earth - which you can read here

And I was working on this site.

It got to about 6am, we ordered scrambled eggs, took showers, and then it was off to the airport - again!

None of us really knew what to expect from the journey we were about to take. We were going to see a project called Utkal Network of People Living with HIV, run by a 24-year-old girl named Mandakini.

This was the one project we hadn’t been able to visit the day before filming becuase of its location - so we really were going in blind…

We arrived in Bhubaneswar late morning and then had to take a 2 hour ride to a small town called Cuttak. It was hot beyond belief - 46 c. / 120 F.  We later found out there was a heatwave - and even the locals - who are used to sweltering temperatures - were finding it uncomfortable.

We arrived mid-afternoon.

Here’s Travis at Bhubaneswar airport, getting ready for the ride to Cuttack…

http://www.vimeo.com/5325349

Manila > Mumbai

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

We were pretty choked to say goodbye to Manila – we’d seen and experienced so much there. But we had to move onto our next and final stop – India.

The flights this time were ok – 2 hours to Hong Kong and then 7 hours to Mumbai…It seemed short in comparison to some of the other treks we’d made…

Here’s Travie at Mumbai airport sitting on the baggage re-claim… Luckily the crew claimed him - and all was good. ;)

travis on baggage re-claim

We ventured outside and it was HOT. We were met with our new set of security guards, who looked like secret agents… It was then off to the hotel for a little nap and preparation for tomorrow’s trip to Bhubaneshwar - an area of east India - and another 2 hour flight away. We were going to visit a 24-year-old girl called Mandakini…

Here’s  Travie on the walk to the car - just in case you forgot where we were… ;)

welcome to mumbai

Day 2 - Manila

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

The morning was spent doing press for the trip. Travis, Georgia and Alex from BALUTI fielded questions from local and national reporters. Travis also presented Alex with his Staying Alive Foundation Award.
In the evening it was time to get a taste of Filipino music. We went to a club called mag:net where a whole bunch of local bands were playing - including an indie rock band called Archipelago. Travis was recording all the music on his TasCam recorder, but when Archipelago were a couple of tracks in he couldn’t resist jumping up on stage with them…

See the video here:

http://www.vimeo.com/5321880

On his Twitter he says:

“NEW FAVORITE BAND…ARCHIPELAGO from the Phillipines..check them out. SO dope!!!!!”

We also caught up with hot Filipino band Milagro, who were playing - here’s their message for Travie:

http://www.vimeo.com/5322882

ps. they are the nicest dudes you could ever meet.

NB: If you read this post earlier you might have noticed that i got the band names mixed up - thanks to Archipelago for correcting me!

Georgia’s Thoughts on Manila Day 1

Tuesday, June 23rd, 2009
http://www.vimeo.com/5295378

She’s right. We really do need to take a step back sometimes and be thankful for what we have…

Georgia has also written a blog detailing her thoughts on our visit to Manila. Read it below…

Wow – Manila.  To say that our time spent here was “intense” just does not do our visit justice.

Poverty is poverty, wherever you are in the world.  But having flown in from Khayaltsia, Cape Town, I couldn’t help but compare the poverty of the township of South Africa, to the poverty of the more urban setting of Himlayang Palanyag (“Resting Place”), Manila.  Is one a “better” form of poverty than another?  Is it “better” to be poor in Khayaletsia than it is in Himlayang Palanyag?

Ultimately, I figure that if you haven’t been gifted your basic human rights that every person in the world should have been born with: clean water, food, milk for your babies, hell – even a toilet that, if you’re lucky, flushes… than one poor is pretty much the same as another.

So… we were in Manila to see the work that Alex, Ritchie, Eboy, Irene and the rest of the Baluti team are doing in Himlayang Palanyag and the Paranaque area.  Himlayang Palanyag is a settlement pretty much built on one of them main rubbish tips of Manila, and spreads across to the government graveyard.  Seriously.  This is where people live.

Alex showed us around.  On the rubbish tip, stood an abandoned funfair – a haunted house and a small ferris wheel that looks as if it had been standing there for 30 years or so.  Very surreal.  Opposite was the graveyard.

We went in.  There were so many graves, literally crammed into each other, on top of each other, so there was no available space left.  Which meant that as we walked through, there was no choice but to walk across and over people’s graves – there was nowhere else to go.

I apologised to every grave that I stepped on as I did so, and I apologise again, now.  I was disturbed.  But what disturbed me more was to realise that people’s homes were INSIDE the graveyard, tents camped upon graves, because they had nowhere else to go.

I was told by Alex that a lot of the young people who live in this area use the gravestones, literally, as their beds… to have sex on.  Within five minutes, I was gingerly stepping around a used condom, discarded on a gravestone.  I guess at least they’re using condoms.

Alex & Baluti had ‘mapped’ the area around Himalayang Palanyag in order to find out where young people are having sex (so that they know where to focus their education effort) – and the most heavily used area was the graveyard!  It would be fair to say that I was pretty much out of my comfort zone.

Alex told me that people can’t afford to buy their graves, so they rent them from the government for 5 years… after which, young kids are paid to smash through the tomb and remove the bones, so that the graves can be reused.  The bones are then either buried in mass graves, or placed in cement “apartment” blocks.  For many of the filled in blocks that we saw, the families couldn’t afford to engrave the name, birth & death date of their loved ones… and so they wrote it instead with their fingers, in the wet cement that seals their graves.

As we left the graveyard, we saw two families with tiny coffins, about to be buried.  Their babies hadn’t survived long enough to make the graveyard their playground above the ground.

Himalayang Palanyag made me cry.  Talking with the woman with ten kids, no husband, no home, no food for her or her children, let alone milk for her baby which I held for her… I cried.  Stepping over the top of people’s graves… I cried.
But then we watched Baluti in action.  They give basic sex education lessons to kids in this area, and also at the Paranaque National High School (the largest school in the world: 25,000 kids go this school, but have to go in 2 shifts/day!).  Baluti find kids, aged 11-19, and they sit and listen – attentively – to learn about condoms, HIV and STIs.

As we watched their lesson, they asked for a volunteer to do a condom demonstration for the group; the young boy who eventually went up to do so, crossed himself before he opened the condom pack.

I loved the Baluti team: Doc Maris, their wonderfully inspiring adult mentor; Ritchie, who only came out to his family & friends after attending, and being so influenced by a Baluti session.  Eboy, who teaches gay men how to put their make-up on; and Alex, who leads Baluti, and is an ex-gang member who wanted to make more of his life.  Alex’s smiling face, his optimism, and his determination, made me want to clone him so that we could replicate the amazing work that Baluti is doing here, to other – just as needy – places around the world that could so benefit from the Baluti team’s dedication and commitment to changing their community for the better.

Georgia is Executive Director of the Staying Alive Foundation and SVP of Social Responsibility at MTV International.

Follow Georgia on Twitter here..


Kaybuboy Bridge

Tuesday, June 23rd, 2009

After our visit to Paranaque National High School, we took a trip to the Kaybuboy Bridge. We had been told in advance by locals that this place was going to be hard to take in. They weren’t wrong.

This is not just a bridge - this is home to hundreds of Filipinos. They live in the underpass below the busy duel carriageway. The conditions are beyond belief - Travis summed it up perfectly after venturing inside saying “I thought I grew up poor, but now I realize I didn’t know poor until today.”

We made our way down a muddy, heavily littered slope - a slope that led us to the 4 foot tall entrance of the bridge. We had to squat to even get inside. Once inside it was pitch black - only our senses could guide us… mud squelched under foot and the thick sweaty air filled our lungs.

The first thing I saw was a tiny baby hanging in a net suspended from a metal strut. This was this baby’s home. No regular milk or food supply, no electricity, no clean running water. I couldn’t help but think that this baby was going to grow up here - in these squalid conditions. I thought about all the babies born back home and their luxurious surroundings. It seems so unfair.

Entire families live inside this bridge. As we trekked deeper into the darkness we saw, by candlelight, the homes these families had created for themselves. Every nook of the dank concrete space was occupied.

We were only inside for a few minutes, but they’re a few minutes I will never be able to forget….

http://www.vimeo.com/5294867

Travis on top of the bridge…

Bridge

It’s a Drink in a Bag, Giiiirl…

Tuesday, June 23rd, 2009

Travie and I noticed that all the kids were drinking soda from plastic bags, so we went to a street stall by the high school, ordered a Mountain Dew in a bag, and asked what it was all about…

Turns out they put the drink in a bag becasue the stores can make money by returning the glass bottles. Makes sense. Maybe we shout serve drinks in bags back home? Here’s Trav with his drink and corn and a new tune… ;)

http://www.vimeo.com/5321413